NAISSANCE,

The first such indication on Naissance's menu comes when the-requisite calamari is served under fried leeks and with pepper relish, rather than the usual pepperoncini. Some of the other appetizers ($7-$9) are ethnically varied, such as curried skewered chicken and coconut-crusted shrimp. Naissance is big on dipping sauces. Four fondues ($13-$15) are listed, although since the word derives from French for melt, only the cheddar and beer one, and the chocolate dessert version, are properly designated. One of their versions presents fried mozzarella, grilled vegetables and focaccia to dip in tomato sauce. We had the Asian-style fondue and were treated to quite a display. A diner at another table recommended the chicken with wild mushrooms ($17), but I wanted to sample one of the three pastas among the eight entrées . . .

Full review.